In the Siyi (四邑) counties of southern Guangdong — Taishan, Xinhui, Kaiping, Enping — there are villages the old people still call 寡妇村 (guǎfù cūn, "widow villages"). Not because the men died in war. Because they walked to the coast one morning in the 1850s and were never seen again. In one such village, a…