A Surname That Begins With a Man and a Bowl of Wheat
The Chinese surname Mai — 麦 (Mài), traditional form 麥, the character for wheat — is small and hyper-local. Tallies put it between roughly 140th and 210th among Chinese surnames, and about seventy percent of its carriers live in one province, Guangdong —…
The Wuyi counties reached their opera by water. Not as a touring amusement that stopped at a market town, but as a piece of the ritual calendar's machinery — something a lineage and a temple were expected to raise, as they were expected to build a hall or repair a bridge. Cantonese opera (粤剧, Yuèjù),…
The duty: why a grave in America was a failure
The Wuyi emigration story is usually told as an outward story, with the money running back the other way: men left for 金山 (Jīnshān, "Gold Mountain" — North America), and what they sent home built the houses. There was a third flow, and it moved…
The Wuyi (五邑, Wǔyì) qiaoxiang (侨乡, qiáoxiāng) — the emigrant homeland of the five counties of western Guangdong — is famous for the people it sent out. It should be equally famous for the people it took back in. The same counties that produced the sojourners, the remittance letters and the women who waited at…
Money in the Qiaoxiang: WeChat Pay, Alipay and Cash for Returning Diaspora
The Rail That Never Stopped
In the qiaoxiang (侨乡, qiáoxiāng) — the home counties the emigrants left behind — money in China has never moved as a bare transaction. Sending it home has been a relationship with a delivery date.
Before any bank…
Jiangmen — the prefecture in the western Pearl River delta that brands itself 中国侨都 (Zhōngguó Qiáodū, China's "overseas-Chinese capital") — did not grow a single coffee bean when its coffee industry began. What it had instead was a diaspora. For more than a century the people of the five Wuyi counties — Taishan, Kaiping, Xinhui,…
A River Named a People
Most northern Chinese surnames trace to one of two ancestral stems: Ji (姬, Jī), the Zhou royal surname, and Jiang — written 姜 (Jiāng) — the older kind of name, a place before it was a family.
The classical Guoyu preserves the charter: 「黄帝以姬水成,炎帝以姜水成」 — the Yellow Emperor came to…
Chinese in South Africa: a migration the diaspora story skips
Most histories of the Chinese abroad in the gold-rush age stop at the harbour. They follow the men who reached San Francisco, the diggings of Victoria, the cold gullies of Otago, the sandbars of the Fraser River — the familiar ports and fields of the…
One of China's top-100 surnames — 江 (Jiāng), usually counted around seventy-ninth by population — did not begin as a kingdom's triumph. It began as a kingdom's end. The name is what was left after a small state on the Huai River was swallowed by its larger neighbour in 623 BCE, and the people who…
Two exits from one province
Guangdong's emigration ran at least two different machines, and only one left from a coast.
The lane the world knows sailed from the delta edge — Taishan, Kaiping, Xinhui, Enping, Heshan, the counties grouped as the Wuyi — on credit-ticket passages: the Wuyi, Fujian and Chaozhou diaspora routes. The second…