Sunning Railway: Uniting Taishan’s Overseas Chinese and Transforming a Nation
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In the early 20th century, Taishan (台山) was a mosaic of winding waterways, secluded villages, and far-reaching overseas connections. It was into this environment that an extraordinary dream took shape: the Sunning Railway (新宁铁路). This 138-kilometer rail line—entirely funded by Taishan’s overseas Chinese community—represented more than just a transportation project. It was a powerful symbol of unity, cultural resilience, and economic opportunity, linking Taishan’s remote communities to new possibilities and reaffirming the strength of a diaspora spread across oceans.
The Man Behind the Vision: Chen Yixi’s Remarkable Journey
At the heart of the Sunning Railway’s origin story stood Chen Yixi (陈宜禧), a man whose personal journey was as extraordinary as the railway he helped create. Born into hardship, he lost both his parents at a very young age and was subsequently raised by the very villagers who had known his family. Due to economic constraints, Chen Yixi’s formal education ended after only a few years of primary school. Yet, this early adversity forged within him a resilience and adaptability that would prove crucial in later years.
A pivotal moment came when Chen encountered a fellow villager who had just returned from the United States—a migrant whose tales of opportunity lit a spark in the young man’s mind. Determined to find a better life and seize any chance at self-improvement, Chen Yixi decided to follow this returning migrant back across the Pacific. He arrived in America at a time when the construction of the transcontinental railways was in full swing.
For nearly 40 years, Chen immersed himself in the U.S. railway industry. Starting with the most basic, grueling labor, he steadily rose through the ranks, learning the intricacies of railway construction, engineering, and management. Though far from home, the rails he helped lay across the American landscape would eventually serve as his greatest classroom. Gaining both technical skills and an understanding of large-scale infrastructure development, Chen envisioned bringing this knowledge back to Taishan, determined to reshape his homeland’s destiny.
Bringing Railway Expertise Back to Taishan
Armed with decades of hands-on experience, Chen Yixi returned to Taishan at the turn of the century. He carried not only technical know-how but also a belief that infrastructure could serve as the backbone of social and economic uplift. At that time, railways in China were often controlled by foreign interests, and few trusted that a homegrown project could compete on such a scale. Yet Chen’s life story was one of defying odds. Drawing on the collective strength of Taishan’s overseas community—many of whom had also toiled in foreign lands—Chen championed the construction of the Sunning Railway.
This new line would run from Doushan (斗山) through Gongyi (公益) and Taicheng (台城), eventually connecting to Xinhui (新会) and Beijie(北街) in Jiangmen. By relying on locally sourced talent and financial backing from overseas Chinese, the Sunning Railway would stand apart, free from foreign domination and infused with the pride of a people who had earned their place on the world stage.
Transforming Taishan’s Qiaoxu Through the Sunning Railway
As the Sunning Railway took shape, it breathed life into Taishan’s once-quiet landscape. Villages and towns along its route transformed from insular hamlets into bustling commercial hubs. Qiaoxu (侨墟)—markets enriched by the tastes and traditions of returning overseas Chinese—thrived in places like Baisha (白沙), Shuibu (水步), and Dajiang (大江). The railway served as a high-speed corridor for trade, bringing goods from major ports and enabling these emerging consumer markets to flourish.
Soon, iconic qilou (骑楼) arcades—architectural testaments to Taishan’s unique cultural synthesis—lined the busy streets. Shopkeepers negotiated prices in multiple dialects, tea houses buzzed with conversation, and the aromas of imported spices and foreign delicacies drifted through the air. These scenes exemplified a new era of prosperity, fueled by the spirit of overseas solidarity and Chen Yixi’s determination.
Forging Cultural Ties and Community Networks
Beyond its economic impact, the Sunning Railway nurtured social and cultural bonds. Routes passing through Gongyi and Doushan brought together families long separated by distance. The railway turned isolated settlements into thriving junctions of commerce, education, and worship. It carried not just people and goods, but also ideas—traditions refined overseas and reintroduced at home, languages influenced by international experiences, and religious practices blending seamlessly along the trackside temples and churches.
At each Qiaoxu, travelers encountered a tapestry of heritage: schools that taught both Confucian classics and Western subjects, markets filled with goods from Hong Kong and beyond, and streets where laughter, debate, and celebration flowed freely. The Sunning Railway was not merely an engineering achievement; it was a social catalyst, uniting families, bridging generations, and honoring the cultural identities that tied Taishan’s diaspora together.
Challenges, Decline, and the Railway’s End
Yet, even the grandest visions face adversity. The global Great Depression of the 1930s sent shockwaves through the international economy, curbing demand for travel and commerce. As new roads and automobiles rose in popularity, the Sunning Railway struggled to maintain profitability. Finally, in 1938, after the Japanese occupation of Guangzhou, the railway was dismantled. For communities that had thrived along its route, its absence was a deeply felt loss, a reminder that progress can be fragile and that unity, however strong, can be tested by forces beyond human control.
The Enduring Legacy of the Sunning Railway
Though the Sunning Railway’s physical tracks are long gone, its legacy endures. The vision that guided Chen Yixi, born of personal hardship and global wanderings, still resonates in Taishan’s cultural landscape. For descendants of overseas Chinese, the railway symbolizes what collective determination can achieve. It stands as a testament to resilience, resourcefulness, and the idea that a community bound by heritage can conquer challenges that seem insurmountable.
Walking through today’s Qiaoxu markets, visitors can still sense the echoes of that era. They see them in the gracefully aging qilou, the bustling stalls, and the cultural fusion that defines these places. By remembering Chen Yixi’s journey—from orphan to railway laborer to visionary leader—we honor the spirit that transformed Taishan and connected it to the world. In doing so, we ensure that the Sunning Railway’s legacy, and the values it embodied, remain a guiding force for future generations.
Sunning Railway FAQ
1. What is the Sunning Railway?
The Sunning Railway, also called Ningyang Railway, was China’s first privately funded and managed railway. Built by overseas Chinese, it stretched 133 kilometers and connected key towns in Guangdong. Construction started in 1906 and finished in 1920.
2. Why is the Sunning Railway important?
It was the first railway in China fully funded, designed, and operated by Chinese people. It showed the strength of overseas Chinese unity and independence during a time when foreign powers controlled many railways.
3. Where did the Sunning Railway go?
The railway linked Xinhui District in Jiangmen to Taishan. It passed through major towns like Doushan, Gongyi, and Taicheng. Along the route, it had 46 stations, 215 bridges, and 236 culverts.
4. How was it funded?
Overseas Chinese financed the project through donations and investments. They supported the idea of a railway built entirely by Chinese hands. Chen Yixi refused foreign loans, workers, or investors.
5. Who was Chen Yixi?
Chen Yixi was a Chinese immigrant who worked in the U.S. railway industry for 40 years. Orphaned young and raised by villagers, he learned railway construction expertise abroad. He returned to China to lead the Sunning Railway project.
6. What challenges did it face?
The project faced many obstacles, including bureaucratic interference, funding shortages, difficult terrain, and social resistance due to feng shui concerns.
7. How did the railway impact the region?
The railway improved transportation, boosted the economy, introduced modern architecture and technology, and strengthened connections between overseas Chinese and their homeland.
8. Why was the Sunning Railway dismantled?
In 1938, during the Sino-Japanese War, the Chinese government dismantled the railway to prevent Japanese forces from using it for their invasion. The tracks and equipment were destroyed or hidden.
9. Are there any remnants today?
Yes, some relics remain. The Beijie Station in Jiangmen is now a museum where visitors can see preserved structures and exhibits about the railway’s history.
10. What were its technical innovations?
The railway introduced turntable technology to rotate locomotives 180° and used a rail-ferry system to cross rivers, a first in China.
11. How is the Sunning Railway remembered?
The Beijie Station Museum, Chen Yixi Memorial Plaza, and exhibitions showcase artifacts and stories, ensuring the railway's legacy is honored.
12. How did it influence modern railways?
The Sunning Railway proved that Chinese engineers and workers could handle large-scale projects, inspiring future infrastructure development and demonstrating the power of community-driven progress.
Steven
Roots of China was born from my passion for sharing the beauty and stories of Chinese culture with the world. When I settled in Kaiping, Guangdong—a place alive with ancestral legacies and the iconic Diaolou towers—I found myself immersed in stories of migration, resilience, and heritage. Roots of China grew from my own quest to reconnect with heritage into a mission to celebrate Chinese culture. From artisans’ stories and migration histories to timeless crafts, each piece we share brings our heritage to life. Join me at Roots of China, where every story told, every craft preserved, and every legacy uncovered draws us closer to our roots. Let’s celebrate the heritage that connects us all.